Back in January I voiced my love of Vincent Boyer’s wines after tasting them in the London Primeurs for Burgundy. Off the back of the these tastings we bought Vincent’s Meursault ‘Cuvée Fernand Boyer’ 2013 on to our list of 100 wines at The Vintner and it has been going down a storm.

In an effort to be far more regular with these vinous musing and to enhance my reputation with Bacchus a little more, I thought I’d leave my thoughts here after tasting it several times of the last week – it is a tough job but someone has to do it!

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This wine is named after Vincent’s grandfather, Fernand Boyer and I’m sure he’d be very proud. It is made up of fruit from four different Meursault vineyards; Moulin Landin, Les Pelles Dessous, Le Pellans & Le Prie de Manche – each bring their own personality and characteristics to the final blend.

Back in January, I noted that reds fared slightly better than whites in the 2013 vintage and whilst I maintain this, I believe there are still wonderful white wines to be enjoyed – this being no exception.

When I taste white burgundy, the thing I’m looking for to separate the men from the boys is tension – the fine balance created as richness and generosity battle with minerality and acidity as one drinks the wine – Boyer’s effort has tension in spades.

The nose is rich and decadent with butterscotch and popcorn accompanying a broad stone fruit profile. On the palate, one gets freshness to balance out this richness. With plenty of moreish minerality, stone fruits continue on the palate, marrying beautifully with floral notes of honeysuckle and blossom.

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The acidity in this wine is still very present, and perhaps slightly prickly but I do not mind this in a young white burgundy. As the wine ages and this acidity softens, look forward to added complexity as the wines take on nutty notes and gets even more silky. A real star and great value considering the eye watering prices we experience in this day and age.

@wjtrotman

@thevintner

http://www.thevintner.com/meursault-cuvee-fernand-boyer-2013-boyer-martenot-burgundy-france/

Summer in London can be difficult at the best of times – the sardine-tin tubes, the hoards of tourists, the sweat-drench suits…so last month, the Vintner team hopped over the channel for a wine weekend away. But this was no ordinary booze cruise. Far from a shopping spree in Calais’ Carre Four, we journeyed to Beaune – the capital of Burgundy – to  visit some of our existing producers as well as taste wines from as yet undiscovered domaines. Indeed, this was an educational trip, a chance for everyone to enhance their understanding and appreciation of this enigmatic region.

Our weekend began with a visit to Maison David Moret, in the centre of Beaune. We currently list three of David’s wines: Rully 2012, Puligny-Montrachet 2012 and Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Folatieres’ 2011. After we refreshed our memories with a couple of glasses, we were reminded why that is the case. David might not own any vines but he’s got his finger firmly on the pulse, and is able to produce exclusively white wines using the finest fruit sourced across the Cote de Beaune. We tasted the 2013 vintage from barrel across his whole range as well as trying a couple of older vintages (it would have been rude not to…). The wines were superb – rich in style but with the balance and elegance that typifies the best white Burgundies. Moret, along with many other producers is constantly considering the ‘tension’ in his wines – the fine balance created as richness and generosity battle with minerality and acidity. It is this tension that makes white Burgundy so alluring and delicious.

Tasting at David Moret

Tasting at David Moret

Next on the itinerary was a visit to Pascual Arnoux at Domaine Arnoux Pere et Fils in Chorey Les Beaune. Pascual produces the Chorey Les Beaune 2011, Savigny Les Beaune 2011 and Beaune 1er Cru ‘En Genet’ 2011 that many of you will recognise from our 100 Wines list. Again, a swift tasting reminded us why these wines are so popular with our clients. The 2012 vintage tasted fantastic, each wine displaying all of the power and structure to indicate great ageing potential. We tried the 1999 Savigny Les Beaune which gave us a glimpse of what Pascual’s wines can become. It was still fresh and soft with beautiful red fruits whilst boasting the secondary characteristics of menthol and leather that lovers of aged red Burgundy long for.

A tour of the Vosne Romanée vineyards followed, including the Romanée-Conti vineyard of Domaine Romanée Conti – birthplace of the most expensive wine on the planet and erm, not on our Wine List…

Vosne Romanée vineyards

Vosne Romanée vineyards

Saturday centered around a visit to Hervé Kerlann’s Chateau de Laborde in Meursanges. The technical Director of the Kerlann operation, Clement Piquet, showed us around the beautiful estate before sitting us down to a tasting of wines across the Hervé Kerlann portfolio. The Bourgogne Pinot Noir and Gevrey-Chambertin were both tasting very promising for the upcoming vintage and we look forward to listing them again.

Before our flight home on Sunday, we had time to squeeze in just one more visit. This time, we dropped in at Julien Collovray’s winery in Macon, for the chance to learn about wine-making on a much larger scale.

Collovray’s operation and portfolio are far bigger than the other producers we’d visited during the weekend and the scale of the wine-making was mightily impressive. We list Julien’s brilliant Pouilly Fuisée 2012 & St. Veran 2012, and these wines are really reaching their peak now. Alongside these, we also tried newer vintages of each to get a glimpse of what we have to come. Rest assured, the Pouilly Fuisée 2013 & St. Veran 2013 are absolute belters and we’re certain you’ll love them.

 

@thevintner @wjtrotman The Vintner